保濕成份面面觀 « 皮膚醫生: 令自己外表更耀眼

保濕成份面面觀

保濕和美白是東方女性護膚的基本訴求。上兩期各大家介紹過美白成份, 今次輪到保濕了。

保濕成分依其功能可大致區分為以下四種。

1. 濕潤劑 (Humectants)- 親水性保濕成分，功能為吸水補充角質層中的水分，改善角質缺水的現象。濕潤劑的作用為吸水，其吸水的範圍可自空氣中的水分子、甚至可將真皮中的水份帶到表皮上。這類物質具有自周圍環境吸取水分的功能，因此在相對濕度高的條件下，對皮膚的保濕效果很好。但是在相對濕度很低，寒冷乾燥、多風的氣候，不但對皮膚沒有好處，反而會從皮膚內層吸取水分，而使皮膚更乾燥。所以需要搭配親油性的油性保濕成分，才能鎖住水分。

屬於濕潤劑的成分包括：甘油(Glycerin)、尿囊素(Urea)、透明質酸 (Hyaluronic Acid)、骨膠原(Collagen)、天然保濕因子(Natural Moisturizing Factor, NMF)、丙二醇 (Propylene Glycol)、維他命原B5、山梨醇 (Xylitol)等。其中，透明質酸可以吸收並緊密結合其重量 500 倍的水分,是現今發現最強的保濕成分。

2. 密封劑 (Occlusives) - 油性鎖水成分，主要作用將皮膚表面密封起來，防止水分蒸發。

密封劑成分泛指所有油脂成分包括：最常見的矽靈(Dimethicone)、礦物油脂 (Mineral Oil)、石蠟 (Petrolatum); 動物油脂如羊毛脂類化合物(Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol)、；還有目前流行的植物油，如甜杏仁油(Sweet Almond Oil)、酪梨油(Avocado Oil)、橄欖油 (Olive Oil)、可可巴油(Jojoba Oil)、月見草油(Evening Primrose Oil)等。

3. 角質修復劑 (Restoratives) ─ 修復皮膚角質的完整性。改善肌膚表面的狀況，強化細胞儲存水分的能力。很多人以為敷個保濕面膜、搽個保濕面霜就可以解決肌膚困擾，事實上，當角質層不健康，再怎麼保濕補水，水分也會馬上流失，一定要同時修復受損的角質層，才能解決因角質受損引發的肌膚乾燥問題。

乾燥、受損的皮膚無論用何種保濕護膚品，其效果總是短暫有限的，不如從提高皮膚本身的保護功能及保濕功能，來達到更理想的效果。修復成分包括：維他命 E、乳糖酸 (Lactic Acid)、磷脂質(Ceramide)、膽固醇 (Cholesterol)等; 此外植物性的成分如青瓜(Cucumber Extract)、蘆薈(Aloe Vera)、燕麥(Oatmeal)、洋甘菊 (Chammomile)、植物荷爾蒙凱因庭 (Kinetin)也有修復角質的作用。

4. 潤膚劑 (Emollients)：將脫皮的角質細胞空隙填滿。角質層如同城牆，角質細胞如同磚塊，潤膚劑如水泥般填充於磚塊間，防止水分流失，抵抗環境刺激。潤膚成份包括：角鯊烯 (Squalane)、羊毛脂 (Lanolin)、鯨蠟硬脂(Cetyl Stearate)等。

多數保濕產品都是將各種成分調製成不同的配方，大家可能依天氣及皮膚狀況而選擇合適的產品。如油性皮膚已經擁有足夠的油性鎖水成分，就可以選擇無油成份的保濕產品；乾性皮膚在冬季時油水皆不足，兼具濕潤和密封成份的潤膚霜少不得；脂漏性皮膚則要一款含有角質修復成份的產品了。

保濕成分依其功能可大致區分為以下四種

Tags: 保濕和美白, 保濕面膜, 女性護膚, 濕潤劑, 皮下透明質酸填充注射, 美容護膚, 美白護膚, 透明質酸注射, 透明質酸真皮填充注射, 骨膠原

This entry was posted on 星期日, 一月 10th, 2010 at 15:25:19 and is filed under 秋冬皮膚保養護膚貼士, 維他命與皮膚保養, 美容護膚扮靚篇. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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皮膚醫生: 令自己外表更耀眼

保濕成份面面觀

21 Responses to “保濕成份面面觀”

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